Steventons reviewed....

Three words sum up this review - try them...again.

I say again because like many of you I visited Steventons many years ago only to be disappointed and underwhelmed. However last Thursday's experience was pleasurable, despite our skepticism going in.

The occasion was my belated birthday dinner and since neither of us had been there (www.steventons.com) in years we decided to give it a chance. We arrived around 6:30 and there were only a few guests scattered through the dining room and no one at the updated and stylish bar area, in which I could see myself hanging out on a normal weeknight. Not exactly a confidence booster I must admit...however on the way to our table I felt better, for surely I would not run into anyone I know right (a rarity indeed)? WRONG. No sooner did the thought enter my mind did I run into one of the servers who I know from her Biaggis days; ah well, sooo close.
I did not, however, know our server Kristen...but by the end of the meal I recommend asking for her next time you go.

We started by perusing the wine list which while not extensive, has a few gems both in the mid- and high-ranges. After taking above-average time to decide (ok you can roll your eyes back into the forward position) we settled on the 2005 Meeker Handprint Series merlot...and never looked back. Not only are the bottles in the Handprint Series individual works of art, the nectar-like liquid contained therein is sublime. Some of the best and highest-priced wine in Bordeaux are merlot-based and you can see why; when done well merlot is a fantastic, red fruit forward, mouthfilling wine with just enough acidity to cut through the most resilient protein. The floral nose doesn't hurt either and the empty bottle will look cool in your kitchen as my dining companion will attest. Look for them at The Grape Life wine emporium.

Next came the appetizer and salads, the only real disappointment of the evening. While the crabcake crust was merely adequate, the center was cool, almost cold, and too creamy for my taste. The taste of crab was disappointingly subdued as well. I'm glad we only onrdered one to split. As for the salads, they reminded me of something you'd get in a 1980's steakhouse. Luckily it was only an accompaniment.

Things began to turn a definite corner with the entrees thankfully. We ordered the Lamb Tartufo, herb marinated lamb chops served with mashed potatoes and truffle garlic cream sauce and the Steak Diane, perfectly sized twin medallions of Angus beef tenderloin pan seared with shallots and mushrooms and finished with demi-glaze and a touch of dijon....and finished tableside. I have to say this is an under-performed epicurean ritual that to my knowledge is not done anywhere else in the QCA. Kristen was adept at execution, finishing the sauce with 151 rum and no eyebrows were singed in the process. The beef was cooked perfectly and while the sauce was a tad thin for my liking, the flavor was outstanding as was that of the parmesan risotto. The lamb was also cooked very nicely and had smooth, creamy flavors though if I did it over again I would get the King Edward rack of lamb due to the English spice rub preparation. The garlic mashed potatoes were also hot and not clumpy, a refreshing delight considering how many restaurants don't get that simple dish right.

Throughout the entire meal the wine's glimmer turned into a bright, floral shine and flavors kept revealing themselves with the meat and sauces presented. And then came dessert; we eventually decided to split their version of molten chocolate cake with homemade cinnamon ice cream and raspberry coulis...and a single birthday candle for yours truly - at no charge. It was a deliciously decadent coda to the meal. Thanks Kristen!

Chef Juan Hernandez has done a yeoman's job in revamping their menu and they prepare several dishes tableside, the big reason you want to check them out (again). Chateaubriand, King Edward rack of lamb, Cherries Jubilee, Flaming Goat Cheese and a Spinach Bacon salad are just a few.

I always promote locally owned restaurants - this is yet another to make the illustrious BB List.