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Monday, June 13, 2011

Red Crow Reviewed....

Last Friday was like most Fridays in that it I found myself at the Biaggis bar during happy hour. It was NOT like most Fridays in that I didn't stay. I remember the days when regulars - fun regulars, the type of people you wanted to run into - were there when I was there and one after work libation turned into an entire evening of cocktail-induced camraderie. Now? Not so much. So after my obligatory glass of vino I recalled that Red Crow Grille, under the expert executive chef Aman Razdan, just introduced a new menu...so off I went.

As is my custom I sat at the bar, relishing their cushy, comfy swivel chairs rivaled only by those of Duck City Bistro (a review soon coming by the way). Meghan, the bartender who I've met on occasion, was welcoming and friendly and offered a taste of their featured and not normally available wine (a rare if not extinct practice in the QCA), a malbec from where else? Argentina. I find malbecs lately to be almost the en vogue equivalent of pinot noir after the movie Sideways, but without the velvety, smooth, subtle flavors. So while it was nice, I declined a glass and asked for the menu, proceeding to taste a couple whites to accompany the amuse bouche, salmon with white bean puree.

The Belleruche blanc 2009 (Rhone valley) and the ubiquitous Whitehaven sauvignon blanc 09 (New Zealand) were both crisp, freshly acidic and citrusy as are so many SB's and related whites. However, that trademark grassy, gooseberry aroma that is the hallmark of NZ sauv blancs was almost off-putting in this case; the Rhone valley blanc however was not and as I expected, the better choice. It also proved once again that 2009 indeed is an almost epic vintage for the wines of France. If you see one, get it. Trust me.

As for the red wine (you knew it was coming right??), after narrowing it down to three half bottles I decided on the Viader 2001 Cabernet - Cab Franc blend from Napa Valley. The deciding factor was the vintage and blend (55/45 respectively), a wine I've not heard of previously. The Cab Sauv gives the wine signature tannins and body while the Cab Franc lends an almost inky fruitiness. I've never been a big fan of cab franc and there's a reason it's primarily a blending grape as one of the five core bordeaux/claret varietals.

Now on to the entree, the reason I came after all! After reviewing the new menu I decided on the wagyu beef with Maine lobster tail, garlic white cheddar mashed potatoes and wilted spinach with a pink peppercorn glaze and tarragon emulsion. I actually left off the lobster due to not being that hungry but ended up sampling a bit later...you see why.
First and foremost, the beef done at a nice mid-rare doneness is mouth watering and definitely lived up to the reputation wagyu has as being top grade beef. The Viader's tannic fruityness also complemented the meat especially the sauces, which when done well make or break a dish. A sidenote: the first time Meghan brought it out it looked to both of us mid-well vs mid-rare and sure enough it was. Meghan immediately asked to take it back and have it re-done after which it was perfect. That's the kind of service one should expect at a nice, higher-end restaurant; kudos Meghan!! The dish has a whole, even though it was essentially "meat and potatoes", far outperformed the blandness associated with that moniker.

As to the lobster: fellow diners at the bar, Matt and Angie (last name omitted), were fun and gracious gourmands with whom to share food and restaurant stories; upon my recommendation Matt ordered the wagyu entree but with the lobster...and he insisted he share some with me for tasting purposes. This actually ended up being the sole weakness of the evening. The doneness was a bit tough and fibrous and lacked the signature butteryness I've come to associate with lobster. I've been on the hunt for an amazing lobster entree...I still am. Nonetheless, thanks to Matt for sharing and to both for some stimulating dinner conversation.

A few concluding notes: Firstly, I believe RC may be one of the only establishments in the QCA to make their own butter, in tonight's case a basil-lime with fresno chile variety...which was awesome. I'm not one to fill up on bread but it was a challenge in this case.
Secondly, two half-glasses of port (a 20 year Taylor Fladgate and a 20 year Grahams) and complimentary coffee offered up by friend and server extraordinaire Erik provided a very tasty digestif, a subtle yet satisfying coda to a well-performed gastronomic symphony.

All in all I'd have to rate this one of the top meals I've had in some time and Red Crow Grille is easily one of my top five restaurants around.

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